- For linen, cotton, silk, and most other fabrics, rinse the item in cold water, then use bar soap to gently scrub the stain.
- For dried stains on linen and cotton, use a mixture of meat tenderizer and water to scrub the stain out of the fabric.
- For harsh stains on cotton and linen, use an enzymatic cleaner, then let it sit for 15 minutes.
Soap and Water
Use this simple method primarily for linen and cotton. This method requires no special tools, but does take a significant amount of prolonged rubbing. It is especially suited to stains on natural fibres like linen and cotton. Fabrics whose surfaces fragment into small round surface balls, known as "bobbles" or "pills," require a longer period of more gentle rubbing. These fabrics include wool and most artificial fibres.
Turn the fabric so the stain is face-down. In this position, water can work at the stain from the back, pushing it outward and off the fabric. Rinsing in this position is more effective than running the water directly onto the stain. You may need to turn clothing inside out to achieve this. If you’re cleaning furniture, like a mattress or a couch, don’t worry about this step.
Flush the stain with cold water. Even an old stain typically hasn't worked its way into the fabric completely, so start by removing the loosely attached surface portions. Run cold water over the back of the fabric, so it pushes through the stain. Hold the fabric in the running water for several minutes. If you’re removing blood from furniture, wet a sponge with cold water and gently dab the area. Warning: never wash a blood stain in warm or hot water, which may cause it to bond permanently to the fibres of the fabric.
Rub bar soap into the stain. Turn the fabric over so the stain is face-up. Rub bar soap into the stain generously to produce a thick lather. Any soap can be used, but traditional solid block laundry soap may have a stiffer, more effective lather than milder hand soap.
Grip the stained area with both hands. Roll or scrunch up two areas of fabric, on either side of the stain. Grip one in each hand to provide a good grip on the area, allowing you to rub it together.
Rub the stain against itself. Turn the 2 handfuls of fabric so the stain is in 2 halves and facing each other. Rub the stained fabric against itself vigorously, or gently but quickly if the fabric is delicate. The friction you generate will slowly loosen the remaining particles of blood, which will remain in the lather rather than re-adhering to the fabric. If you’re worried about blisters, wear gloves to protect your hands. Tight-fitting latex or nitrile gloves will provide the least hindrance to grip and dexterity.
Replace the water and soap and continue rubbing. If the fabric starts getting dry or losing its lather, flush the stain with fresh water and re-apply the soap. Continue rubbing each stained area in this way until it is gone. If you see no improvement after 5 to 10 minutes, try rubbing more vigorously or move on to a different method. If the stain is gone, rinse the fabric with cool water and let it air dry.
Meat Tenderizer
Use this on any fabric, but cautiously on silk and wool. Meat tenderizer powder, sold in grocery stores, can break down the proteins found in blood stains. While it is recommended by some silk experts, meat tenderizer does have the potential to break down silk and wool fibres as well. Test this method on a small corner of these fabrics first to see if damage occurs. If you notice that the fabric changes color at all, don’t use this method. For a less harsh way to remove blood stains from silk, simply use a mixture of laundry detergent and water.
Wet unseasoned meat tenderizer. Put about 15 mL (1 tbsp) of unseasoned meat tenderizer into a small bowl. Gradually add water while stirring until a thick paste is formed. Do not use seasoned meat tenderizer, as the seasonings may stain your fabric. Don’t have meat tenderizer? Try baking soda instead.
Rub the paste gently into the fabric and let it sit for 1 hour. Spread the paste on the dried blood stain and gently rub it with your fingers. Let it sit for about an hour.
Rinse out the paste before washing. After the hour is up, rinse the paste out with cold water. Wash the fabric as usual, but air dry rather than using a dryer, since the heat can cause remnants of the stain to set permanently.
Enzymatic Cleaner
Use this method on any fabric besides wool and silk. Enzymatic cleaners break down proteins that form stains. Since blood stains bond to the fabric using proteins, enzymatic cleaners can be highly effective at removing them. However, wool and silk fibres are made from proteins and may break apart if exposed to an enzyme product.
Use an enzymatic cleaner. If you are having trouble finding a cleaning product labeled "enzymatic" or "enzyme cleaner," try a "natural" or "earth-friendly" laundry detergent or laundry pre-treatment, which often contain biodegradable enzymes. Enzymatic cleaners destroy the proteins that make up human blood. Nature's Miracle and Seventh Generation laundry detergent both fall in this category. Blood protein spotters are also useful products.
Flush the fabric with cold running water to loosen some of the dried blood. Agitate the fabric with your fingers to help scrape off the crusted material, or scrape it off using a blunt knife.
Soak the fabric in cold water and enzymatic cleaner for 1 hour. Dissolve about 120 mL (1/2 cup) of the cleaner in a bowl of cold water, then submerge the stained fabric. The soaking time will depend on how old the dried blood stain is, and how strong the cleaning product is. Soak for at least 1 hour, or for as many as 8 hours. Optionally, scrub the cleaner into the stain with a toothbrush before submerging.
Wash the fabric and let it dry for about 1 hour. Wash the fabric as usual, but do not put it in the dryer, which may cause the blood to be permanently set. Let it air dry, then check whether the stain is still present.
Lemon Juice and Sunlight
Use this method in sunny weather on sturdy fabrics. This method uses common ingredients but requires sunlight to finish the process. You will also need to wait for the fabric to air dry before you can tell whether the stain was successfully removed, making it slower than most other methods. Use this method on fabrics like denim, cotton, and canvas. Warning: lemon juice and sun are both capable of harming delicate fabrics, especially silk.
Soak the stained fabric in cold water. Submerge the fabric in cold water for a few minutes. While it is soaking, gather up the other materials you will need. This includes lemon juice, salt, and a zip-lock plastic bag large enough to contain the clothing.
Wring the clothing gently and transfer it to a bag. Twist the clothing to remove some excess water. Untwist it and transfer it into a large, resealable plastic bag.
Add lemon juice and salt. Pour about 500 mL (2 cups) lemon juice and 120 mL (1/2 cup) salt into the plastic bag and seal it.
Massage the fabric. With the bag closed, press the contents together to work the lemon juice into the fabric, focusing on the stained areas. Some of the salt will dissolve and may help rub the lemon juice into the fabric or the stain itself.
Remove the fabric after 10 minutes. Take out the fabric from the bag and squeeze out the excess lemon juice.
Dry the fabric in the sun. Hang the fabric on a clothesline or clothes horse, or spread it on a flat surface and leave it to dry. Do this in a sunny area, not just in front of a heater. It may feel stiff once dry, but this will go away once the item has been washed normally.
Rinse the fabric with water. If the blood stain is gone, wash the fabric with water to remove all the lemon salt solution. If the blood stain remains, moisten the fabric and let it dry under the sun again.
Stronger Treatments
Use stain removers as a last resort. The substances used in this section are powerful stain removers. However, due to their strength, they may bleach your fabric or cause permanent damage to the fibres. These methods are best used on white, non-delicate items, or as a last resort after other methods have failed.
Test the remover on a corner of the item first. Once you've decided on one of the following solutions, use a cotton ball or paper towel to dab a small amount on a corner or hidden area of the fabric. Let it sit for 5 to 10 minutes to see whether it stains your fabric. If it does stain your fabric, immediately rinse the product out and stick to soap and water.
Use white vinegar for delicate fabrics. Vinegar is not typically as strong as the options below, but still has the potential to harm fabric. Soak the stained fabric in white vinegar for about 30 minutes, then rub the stain with your fingers as you rinse it in cool water. Repeat if the stain is noticeably improved but still present.
Try hydrogen peroxide on white fabric. Pour 3% hydrogen peroxide solution directly onto the stain or apply it with a cotton ball. Be aware that it will likely bleach colored fabric. Keep the fabric in a dark place for 5-10 minutes, since light breaks down hydrogen peroxide, then blot with a sponge or cloth. Then, rinse the stain with cool water.
Use an ammonia mixture on cotton or cotton blends. Start with "household ammonia" or "ammonia hydroxide," sold as a cleaning product. Dilute this with an equal amount of water, and leave it on the stain for 15 minutes before blotting and rinsing. If your "test corner" showed signs of damage, soak the fabric in a much weaker solution, such as 15 ml (1 tbsp) household ammonia, 1 L (1 quart) water, and a drop of liquid handwashing detergent. Warning: ammonia may destroy the protein fibres that form silk or wool. Ammonia works very well on stains that have resisted other methods. Household ammonia is approximately 5—10% ammonia and 90–95% water. Stronger ammonia solutions are highly caustic and need to be diluted even more.
Comments
0 comment