The week-old menu at Royal Indiana, at Accord Metropolitan, looks like a classy leather-bound travelogue. There are illustrative descriptions and histories of various Southern regions of the country including Travancore, Mysore, Hyderabad and Coorg, not to forget a few erstwhile North Indian princely states. And as you flip through the heavy menu book, though it takes a while to get around the complicated names of the dishes, you immediately know that you are spoilt for choice.
Having done extensive research in the area of South Indian cuisine, CEO Venkatesh Bhat says that the dishes on the menu are as authentic as they they get. With over 15 years experience in the industry, Chef Bhat reveals that he’s been part of various expeditions to villages that have salvaged over 3,000 lost recipes. “It’s not only food from different states, but also from different regions in those states,” he says.
The delicate Kuzhi Paniyaram is adequately warm and amply soft. Just as you begin to wonder about accompaniments, the heavy hit of pepper aftertaste of the Mokkajonna Miriyalu Fry (Baby corn) perfectly accomplish the job of a starter. But before you can even think the about main course, there is still the perfectly-cooked Uppu Kari (mutton), the fiery red Kozhi Roast and Podi Chapa (fish). With hints of blended spices and subtle ginger garlic flavours, the Uppu Kari, which immediately brings about gushing memories of your grandmother’s cooking, is a winner.
While you sip on the spiced buttermilk, you can’t help but be tempted by the invitingly-white appams and idiyppams that are prepared behind a glass window. But what makes its way to the table first is a soft, meek-looking masala roti. The Mirapakaya Pattani Curry, with its creamy gravy and veggies, might seem like a better option to go with the roti, but if you’re feeling experimental, try it with the Karuvepiliai Poondu Kuzhambu. Not only does the taste, but the entire experience of eating the melt-in-your-mouth pieces of tempered garlic linger much after dessert.
When the Idiappam and Appams do arrive, they’re fresh and flavourful, but what elevate them to another level are the Alleppey Fish Curry and Gongura Mamsam (mutton). The fish curry is especially authentic, with hints of coconut pleasantly surprising your taste buds.
And after the exceptionally-delicious tossed crab meat with shredded coconut and spices, one would think that by now, there might have been an overdose of coconut. But one look at the Elaneer Payasam and you instantly know that your tolerance for coconut, especially the tender variety, just went up. With bits of tender coconut floating about blissfully, no amount of rich chocolate dessert can challenge this frothy payasam. The Mango Payasam, with its generous dose of nuts and creaminess that comes from condensed milk, is a different sweet story.
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