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Prepping Your Hair
Grow out your hair if it’s been chemically treated. Do not use a hot comb on hair that has been chemically relaxed since it’s already weakened. Grow your hair out an inch (2.5 cm) or more before you try to use a hot comb, and then only use it on the new growth.
Wash and dry your hair. Hair should be clean and dry before you attempt to straighten it. Make sure that the hair has no dandruff or buildup in your hair or scalp . You’ll have more success with the hot comb if you’ve already stretched your hair out, so blow dry it as straight as possible. Separate it into sections and run a brush through it as you dry.
Apply a heat protectant to your hair. To protect your hair from the high heat, apply some product to each section of hair before you straighten it. Purchase a special heat protectant spray at a drugstore or beauty supply store, or use a carrier oil you already have at home. It is good to use a heat protectant spray to prevent heat damage to your natural hair. Use avocado or sunflower oil since they have higher burn points than other oils.
Comb all the tangles out of your hair. Use a regular plastic-tooth comb and make sure you can run it through your hair from root to tip without resistance before you begin. If you leave tangles in, the hot comb will snag on them and is more likely to burn your hair.
Separate your hair into small sections. Each section should only take up about half the length of the comb as well as half of its width. Depending on the size of your comb, you will probably want to make your sections one to two inches (2.5 to 5 cm) wide. Gather each section back with a hair clip or pin.
Using a Manual Hot Comb
Use a ceramic or metal comb with a heat-resistant handle. Do not use a plastic comb or a comb with no handle. Your hot comb must be made of metal or ceramic so that it won’t melt, and it needs a heat-resistant handle so that you don’t burn your hand. Hot combs can be purchased at beauty supply stores or online.
Hold the comb over a stove burner for 30 seconds. If you have a gas stove, hold the comb so that the teeth are just barely getting brushed by the top of the flames. For an electric stove, hold the teeth against the hot burner, and use medium to medium-high heat.
Test the comb on a white paper towel. After 30 seconds, test the comb before you use it by setting it on a white paper towel. If the towel turns brown, your comb is too hot and will damage your hair. Let it cool for a minute and test it again before using it in your hair. This test is very important, as your hair can burn or fall off if the comb is too hot.
Loosen a section of hair. Remove the clip holding one of the bottom back sections of your hair. Give that section a quick comb-through with a normal plastic-tooth comb before using the hot metal comb. This prevents getting the hot comb stuck in your hair.
Place the comb close to your scalp. Position the teeth of the comb on the hair near your roots. Do not allow the comb to actually touch your scalp, but get it as close as possible so you can straighten any new growth.
Pull the comb down through your hair quickly. Holding the section of hair out from your head with one hand, use the other to gently pull the comb all the way from the root through the ends of the hair in one quick motion. Avoid keeping the hot iron comb in one spot for too long, or you could scald your hair.
Repeat on the same section of hair if necessary. If one pass-through didn’t get it straight enough, you can go over it again with the hot comb. But don't do this more than one additional time, or you risk burning your hair. One pass should be enough for fine or medium hair. Two passes may be necessary for coarse or thick hair.
Reheat the comb periodically. After running the comb through your hair a few times, it will begin to lose its heat. Hold it over the flame or on the burner again, but remember that it's already slightly hot so it won't take as long to warm back up. Remember to test the comb on a white paper towel each time you heat it up to make sure it isn't too hot for your hair.
Comb the rest of your hair. Continue hot combing, working your way from the nape of your neck to the top of your head. Work from back to front since the back is the hardest spot to reach, and having the rest of your hair in clips will make it easier to see what you're doing.
Using an Electric Hot Comb
Purchase an electric hot comb with variable heat settings. Beauty supply stores and websites should have a variety of electric hot combs to choose from. Look for one with multiple heat settings so that you can adjust the temperature to your hair texture. They come in a variety of sizes and materials, including titanium, ceramic, and gold, which can heat up in under 30 seconds. If you have coarse or thick hair, an electric hot comb may not work as well as a manual hot comb.
Place the hot comb on a heat-resistant surface. Most hot combs will have a kickstand so that the spine isn’t touching anything as it’s heating up. Even so, the device could tip over if you’re not careful, so make sure it’s heating up on a countertop away from towels, hair accessories and products, and water.
Set the comb to the best temperature for your hair type. Your comb should have come with information that details what temperature or setting to use for your hair type. If you’ve lost this paperwork, err on the side of a lower temperature or setting to start out with, then increase it if it seems like it’s not straightening your hair quickly enough. Lower temperatures will be for finer hair, while higher temperatures will be for coarser, thicker hair.
Place the comb close to your scalp. Unclip one section of hair near the nape of your neck, and get the comb as close as possible to your scalp so you can straighten your roots. Be careful not to let the comb actually touch your skin, since it can burn you instantly.
Pull the comb down through your hair quickly. Holding the section of hair out from your head with one hand, use the other to gently pull the comb all the way from the root through the ends of the hair in one quick motion. If you’re only straightening your roots, stop the comb before it reaches any previously processed hair. Repeat this process once more on the same section of hair if one pass-through didn’t get it straight enough.
Position the comb with the teeth facing up for more volume. Put the comb underneath the section of hair with the teeth pointing up, and comb away from the roots in an arching motion. This will add more volume as you straighten. You can also rotate your wrist as you approach the ends of your hair to get a little bit of curl at the bottom.
Comb the rest of your hair. Continue hot combing, working your way up from the nape of your neck to the top of your head, and then forward toward your face. If you have trouble reaching the back pieces, have someone help you.
Turn off the hot comb. As soon as you’re done, turn off and unplug the device. Hot combs can reach extremely high temperatures, and you risk starting a fire if you leave it on unattended.
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