Creating a White Base Layer
Keep a photo of the Joker next to you to use it for reference. It may be hard to duplicate the famous character’s makeup without referencing a photo. Use your phone or laptop to pull up a high-quality photo of Joaquin Phoenix’s character and leave it next to the mirror where you’re working. This is going to be particularly helpful when it comes to making minor adjustments and adding details.
Get white, red, and blue face paints that are activated by water. Get a set of powder or solid face paints that are water-activated. You don’t need a lot of face paint, so a few 0.5 oz (14 g) containers should be more than enough. To activate your paints, mist or sprinkle a little water on the surface of the powder or solid paint. Mix the damp surface of the paint around with a brush or sponge to activate it.Tip: The red and blue should be primary versions of the color, not tinted shades of maroon, navy blue, or teal. The white should be a pure, primary white, not cream or eggshell. The pre-activated and ready-to-use face paints tend to be fairly low quality. You can use them if you prefer, but you should use water-activated paints if you’re going for an authentic look. You can buy face paints online or from an art supply store. You can get them at most costume shops too. They typically cost $5-15 depending on the brand you choose.
Cover your entire face in white paint using a small paint sponge. Get a 2–3 in (5.1–7.6 cm) paint or makeup sponge. Dip it in your white face paint. Then cover your entire face in a layer of white by dabbing and rubbing the sponge on your face. Work roughly 1 in (2.5 cm) inside of your hairline and stay inside of your cheekbones and chin. Close your eyes to dab paint over your eyelids.Reload your sponge with more paint as needed whenever the color starts to thin out too much.If you look closely, Joaquin Phoenix’s makeup in the film isn’t perfect. It’s actually kind of blotchy and poorly applied. Do not worry about covering your face in a solid, opaque layer of paint. You’re going to thin it out in the next step anyway.
Use a wet sponge to blot the face randomly and make the paint blotchy. Once you’ve added a layer of white, dip your sponge in a small cup of water. Squeeze the excess water out. Then, gently dab the wet sponge under your eyes, over your eyebrows, and around your jaw to thin the paint out. There are no hard rules here, so continue blotting the paint until it looks good to you.If you’re heading out on a hot or muggy night in your costume, opt to keep the paint a little darker. You’ll naturally sweat over the course of the night and the paint will thin out on its own.
Wipe off any mistakes with a damp cloth as you work. If you accidentally get paint on your neck or hair, use a wet cloth to wipe it away. Keep this cloth near you as you apply the paint and use it to clean up mistakes as you go.
Adding the Red Eyebrows, Nose, and Mouth
Add your eyebrows using a 1 in (2.5 cm) brush and red paint. Start halfway between your hairline and your natural eyebrows. Be sure to leave at least 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of space above the eyes to leave room for the blue diamonds you’ll add later. Use your brush to add a curved length of red paint that’s roughly the same size as your actual eyebrow above your left eye and place a slightly asymmetrical length of paint on the right. Then, brush the paint up a little to build on the center of each eyebrow.Dip your brush in water when you’re done to thin the paint down. Then, add a few 0.25–0.75 in (0.64–1.91 cm) vertical marks along the bottom of each brow to give it a little detail. Making the eyebrows slightly asymmetrical will make you look a little unstable—just like the Joker!
Paint the tip of the nose using the same red you used for the eyebrows. Use a brush to paint the bottom 1–2 inches (2.5–5.1 cm) of your nose’s tip. Make the nose round and fill the middle in with a clean layer of red paint. Add some paint to the front of your nostrils to make it look like a round clown’s nose. Fill the very tip of the nose in with an additional layer of paint to make it darker. The tip of the Joker’s nose is a little darker than the rest of it.
Make the eyebrows and nose drip a little using a wet brush. Dip the brush you used to paint the eyebrows and nose in a cup of water. Then, let the brush drip for 10-15 seconds to let it dry out a little. Use the brush to feather out the edges of the eyebrows and nose to mix a little red into the white around it.This makes the paint look a little messy and sloppy, which is kind of how the Joker’s makeup looks in the film.
Create a messy smile by painting over and around your lips in red. Reload your brush with a fresh coat of red face paint. Run the brush back and forth over your lips. Then, add an additional 0.5 in (1.3 cm) layer of paint above and under your lips. At the edges, extend these 2 layers upward at a 15-degree angle and connect them in a soft point to create the classic joker smile.Tip: You’ll have to make a conscious effort to not lick your lips while you’re in costume. The paint isn’t harmful, but it won’t taste good if it gets in your mouth!
Feather the red out around your lips to make it look worn down. Wet your brush in a little bit of water and run it around the exterior edges of the red paint to spread it out a little. This softens the lines you’ve applied and make the paint look a little distressed. How worn down you want the paint to look is entirely up to you. If you want it to be relatively clean, feel free to tone down how much feathering you do with the wet brush.
Painting Your Eyes Blue and Finishing the Look
Add a blue outline of a diamond surrounding each of your eyes. Grab a fresh brush and dip it in your blue paint. Draw the outline of a 3 by 3 in (7.6 by 7.6 cm) diamond over each of your eyes. Orient the diamonds so that your eye sits in the middle of each diamond.
Fill in the diamonds with blue paint to finish the iconic look. Fill in the interior of each diamond with blue paint until you get to your eyes. Then, close your eyes and gently fill in the paint on your eyelids and under your eyes.Tip: The blue around your eyes doesn’t need to be perfect. If you reference your photo, you’ll see that there’s usually plenty of the white around Joaquin Phoenix’s eyes sticking out through the blue.
Load your brush with a little water and dab it on the bottom of the diamonds. To give the bottom of the diamonds a little personality, dip your brush quickly in some water. Tilt your head back 15- to 25-degrees and dab the bottom of each diamond with your water and paint. The dripping paint adds a little attitude and gives your makeup a messier look.
Reapply white to the cheeks and forehead to add highlights. Dip your sponge into a little bit of white. Dab the sponge gently in the middle of each of your cheeks. Then, rub a little bit of white along the top of your forehead. This creates contrast between the red features and the base layer of white.Face paint dries pretty quickly, but it’s a good idea to give your paint 10-15 minutes to settle before touching your face.You can wash the face paint off in the shower when you’re done.
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