Outdoor Cat House
Find building materials. Outdoor cats need shelter from wind, rain, and cold. Use sturdy building materials or repurpose an existing container. Try these: Plastic storage tub from a hardware store (about 35 gallons / 132 L) (Easiest option) Old doghouse from a friend or neighbor Plywood or lumber (one 4 x 8 ft sheet, or assorted scrap)
Size it for a snug fit. A cat's body heat can only warm up a small space. There's no magic size to aim for, but the largest shelters top out at about 26" tall x 26" x 32" (66 x 66 x 81 cm). If you're using an existing container significantly larger than this, saw it apart or divide it using plywood. These dog house instructions will work for cats as well, with the modifications described below. Use these if you're building the house from lumber or plywood.
Make the roof removable. A removable roof lets you easily change dirty bedding and check on an injured animal if it wanders in. If you're building the house yourself, attach the roof to the walls using a hinge. If you're using a plastic storage tub, use the lid as a roof. Once complete, you can weigh down the roof using rocks or other heavy objects.
Raise the house off the ground (if necessary). The shelter must be raised if you expect snowdrifts or floods in your area. 18 inches (46 cm) is enough for most areas, but 12" (30 cm) or less will work in areas with less severe weather. There are several solutions possible: Keep the shelter on a covered, raised patio. Stack the shelter on stacks of scrap lumber, concrete blocks, or other objects. The stack must be completely flat and sturdy. Surround it with heavy objects if necessary to prevent collapse. Keep it on a sturdy plywood sheet raised off the ground by four 2x4s (38 x 89mm) legs attached with coated deck screws.
Create an entrance and exit. Cats prefer shelters with two entrances, so they can escape from predators sniffing in one. Cut two 6 x 6" (15 x 15 cm) doorways on different sides. If using plastic, cover the sharp edges with duct tape. If the house is not raised, start cutting the doorway about 2" (5 cm) above the ground to prevent flooding from rain. If the house is raised, cut the entrance on a side with a ledge in front of it (from the plywood or stacked objects) so the cat can jump up to it. Cut the exit somewhere with no ledge beneath it, so predators can't easily access it. For added warmth, staple or glue canvas drop cloth over the interior of each doorway.
Waterproof the shelter (if necessary). The plastic storage tub is already waterproof, letting you skip this step. If you are using plywood or lumber, or a doghouse, sand and paint it to protect it from rain. For serious protection and further insulation, cover the roof with roofing material.
Insulate the walls and roof. A lumber cat house may be warm enough without this step, but any other material requires insulation. Line each wall by gluing on 1" (2.5 cm) thick foam insulation board from a home improvement store. Leave a 3" (7.5 cm) gap at the top of the walls. rest an additional piece of foam on top of the walls, to insulate the roof. In areas with severe winter, consider using Mylar instead, which will reflect the cat's body heat. You may line the floor with Mylar as well. Cut the foam with a utility knife.
Fill the house with burrowing materials. Put in plenty of straw, without blocking the doorways, for cats to burrow in for additional warmth. If you don't have a straw, use pillowcases loosely stuffed with packing peanuts or shredded newspaper. Do not use hay, which absorbs moisture and can cause allergies. Do not use blankets, towels, or loose newspaper. These can absorb body heat and chill the cat. Some cats will eat packing peanuts, which can cause intestinal blockage. Double-bag them with pillowcases to minimize this risk.
Provide food and water. You can keep food inside the shelter, but water should be left outside to avoid spilling. Keep the water dish nearby. In temperatures below freezing, use an electrically heated water dish. If you can't afford one, use a ceramic or thick plastic dish and surround it with styrofoam.
Lure cats in with catnip. Invite feral cats into the shelter with a small amount of catnip just inside the entrance.
Indoor Cat House
Find several cardboard boxes. For an indoor playhouse, a cardboard or Styrofoam box makes an especially easy house. You can build your own from corrugated cardboard, poster board, or any other lightweight material, but an existing box will be much sturdier. If the box is smaller than 2 x 3 feet (60 x 90 cm), you'll need multiple boxes to make the house big enough. Cats may chew the cardboard or Styrofoam, so don't use anything you want to reuse.
Cut a couple of doors. Use a utility knife to cut through one of the cardboard boxes. Each doorway should be 6 inches (15 cm) high to fit the cat comfortably. Cut a couple of small windows or viewing strips if you want to watch the cat while it plays inside. Glue rags or spare fabric over the doors and windows so you can give your cat some alone time.
Tape on additional boxes. Add a couple of rooms to your cat's home with the additional boxes. To make a second story, cut a 6" (15 cm) hole in the ceiling and tape another box upside-down over it. There should be enough of a floor left for the cat to walk on. Use packing tape, duct tape, or another sturdy tape.
Make it cozy and fun. Add a small blanket or a cat bed inside. A scratching post or rough towel gives your cat something to scratch. And of course, what cat doesn't like a cat toy? If you have a multistory cat house put an extra-fun toy on the highest level, so the cat has fun working out how to reach it.
Keep food, water, and litter outside the house. Keeping them in the house usually leads to a mess, which might even collapse the cardboard. You can move them nearby, but show your cat their new location to make sure he doesn't return to his old bathroom spot.
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