How to Backstitch

Backstitching in Embroidery

Thread a needle and tie a knot in the end of the thread. For easier backstitching, use a shorter needle (about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long) with a shorter (not elongated) eye. Once you get the thread through the eye, tie a knot at the end of the longer side of the thread by doing the following: Wrap the end of the long side of the thread loosely around your index finger 1-3 times. Use your thumb on the same hand to roll the loop off of your index finger. Grasp the loop with your thumb and forefinger and work it toward the end of the thread. It will tighten into a knot in the process.

Draw a pencil line on your fabric to mark your backstitch line. Backstitching is great for turning corners and making curved lines, but start with a straight line if you’re a beginner. Use a ruler and a pencil to draw the line you want your sewing line to follow. You can also use chalk with a pointed tip. The pencil/chalk line will be covered up by the sewing line. If you can still see it after sewing, you can wipe it away with a damp cloth.

Poke the needle up from beneath the fabric at one end of the line. Then, push the needle back down through the fabric about 0.25 in (6.4 mm) further along the line. Pull the thread until the knot catches against the underside of the fabric at the first insertion point. While 0.25 in (6.4 mm) is a common length for a single stitch, you can make yours wider or shorter as desired. Try to remain consistent in your chosen length, though, to keep your stitch line looking neat.

Repeat this first stitch twice more. Feed the needle back up through the first hole you made, and down through the second hole. Pull the thread snug when you’re finished. Then, do the same process once more. Combined with the knot, this starting triple stitch will hold your stitch line securely in place. Triple stitching will make your stitch line a little thicker in this section, so consider double stitching or taking your chances with just a single stitch if you really want consistent thickness in your stitch line.

Poke the needle up through the fabric a stitch-width down the line. If you’re stitching from left to right, for instance, insert the needle 0.25 in (6.4 mm) to the right of the second insertion point. At this juncture, then, you’ll have a triple stitch connecting insertion points 1 and 2, the needle poking up through insertion point 3, and a stitch-width gap between points 2 and 3. Remember that you can make your stitch widths shorter or longer than 0.25 in (0.64 cm), but try to be as consistent as possible.

Feed the needle and thread down and through insertion point 2. This is where the “back” in backstitching happens. You stitch opposite the direction of your overall stitch line, going back to insertion point 2 with your needle and thread. Poke the needle down into the fabric at point 2, and pull the thread tight. You’ll now have an unbroken thread line running from point 1 to point 3. This is why the backstitch is great for making outlines.

Poke up through the fabric at insertion point 4 and keep repeating the process. Insertion point 4 should be a stitch-width away from point 3. Once you poke up through there, feed the needle back through point 3 and pull the thread tight. Then, poke up through point 5, back down through point 4, pull tight, and keep going until you reach the end of your pencil line. Your pencil line should now be covered by an unbroken thread line.

Weave through the last 3 or 4 stitches to secure the end of the line. If, for instance, insertion point 8 is the end of your stitch line, come back up through point 8 after going down through point 7. Then, feed the needle under the thread (but over the fabric) from left to right between points 8 and 7. After that, do the same between points 7 and 6, but feed the needle from right to left. Keep alternating your weave 1-2 more times. After you’ve made your last weave, go back under that stitch line with your needle once more and create a loop in your thread. Feed the needle through the loop and pull the thread tight to create a knot. Finally, snip off the excess thread (and the needle) with sharp scissors. Instead of weaving, you can instead create another triple stitch, then knot and trim the end of the thread. Either method will secure the end of the stitch line.

Using a Sewing Machine

Create a guideline on your fabric with a pencil or chalk. Use a ruler to keep the guideline straight. As with sewing by hand, you can backstitch corners and curves with a sewing machine, but it’s easier to do straight lines if you’re a novice. Sewing machines can create straight, practically continuous stitch lines without using a backstitch. Instead, backstitching with a sewing machine is usually used to secure the beginning and end of a stitch line.

Position your needle at one end of the guideline. Often, there is a wheel knob on the machine near the base of the needle that lets you raise and lower the needle. Once you have the needle right above the starting point of the guideline, press down the foot that surrounds the needle—this is the flat metal piece that holds the fabric in place. Consult your model’s product manual for specific instructions on positioning the needle and foot.

Use the machine to stitch along the line about 0.5–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm). Press the button or foot pedal that activates your sewing machine, and use your hand to help steady and guide the piece of fabric. Keep the machine at a slow speed and work on creating as straight of a line as you can. With practice, you’ll be able to stitch straight lines at a faster speed. Once again, consult your product manual for specific operation instructions.

Switch the machine to backstitch mode and go back over the stitch line. Many machines have a button—often labeled with a U-turn shaped arrow—that switches them from forward stitch to backstitch mode. Once you switch the machine to backstitch, run it slowly and go right back over the stitch line you just made. Stop when you get back to your original starting point. Your model may have a lever or knob instead of a button. Read your product manual!

Return to forward stitching and complete your stitch line. Adjust the appropriate button/lever/switch on your machine and stitch forward from your starting point all the way to the endpoint of your guideline. Run the machine at low speed and work carefully until you master keeping your stitch line straight. After that, you can try going faster and creating curves or corners. Don’t worry if your line isn’t perfectly straight the first time—it takes a bit of practice, but you’ll get the hang of it!

Backstitch from the endpoint about 0.5–1 in (1.3–2.5 cm). Switch the machine to backstitch mode again and go back over the last section of your stitch line. Once you finish, follow your machine’s instructions for disengaging the needle and foot and snipping the line. With a backstitch at each end, you stitch line should hold securely without having to make any knots in the thread.

Backstitching in Knitting

Layer 2 knit pieces on top of each other. The backstitch is used in knitting to connect 2 pieces of knit material to each other at the seams. Put the pieces of knit material on top of each other with the right sides facing each other. Make sure the seams line up so you can work in a straight line. Backstitching is a great stitch to use when making clothes, since you might need to connect 2 large pieces together.

Thread a darning needle with the same yarn. Grab a large darning needle and thread it with a single layer of the same yarn you used in your knit pieces. This will ensure that your backstitch is mostly hidden, so it’ll be easier to hide it in the finished piece. If you want your backstitch to stand out, pick a contrasting color instead of a matching one.

Bring the needle up and down through both layers to secure it. Start at one end of the seam and poke your needle up through the back of the knit layers up to the front. Bring it back down right next to the hole you just made, then do that again to secure your stitching. Since you can’t tie a secure knot in yarn, it’s important to secure it by stitching on both sides of your backstitch line.

Poke your needle up through both pieces, then back down at your first stitch. Bring your needle up through the back of your knit layers about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) away from your initial stitch. Then, bring the needle back down through the layers at your initial stitch, moving “backwards” (hence the name). The length of your stitches is up to you, but doing them about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) apart will be the easiest and most secure.

Continue in a straight line until you reach the end. Keep bringing your needle up through both layers about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) away from your last stitch, then put it back down through the last stitch you made. You’re constantly going back and forth, which is what makes this stitch so secure. If your stitches space out a little bit, that’s okay. Try to make sure they’re all relatively the same length, but don’t stress too much if they’re uneven.

Loop the yarn around the edge to secure it. When you reach the end of your seam, bring the needle up through both layers, then loop it around the edge of the knit pieces. Bring the needle back up again through the knit pieces, then loop it around once more to really secure your seam. Now, you can take your darning needle off the yarn and cut off the excess. This stitch is pretty hard to unpick, so make sure you really want these 2 pieces conjoined!